AN ELABORATE TURKMEN CEREMONIAL WEDDING HEADDRESS WITH SHELLS AND PENDANTS
Turkmenistan, late 20th century

The hemispherical off-white felt hat lined in black-dyed cotton, the outer red cotton ground sewn with concentric, overlapping rows of white metal pendants, chased in relief with rosettes roundels and beaded vertical bands, further embellished with bands of cowrie sea shells and dangling rattling spheres and Kuchi coins, both in silver and white metal, the dome-like finial surmounted by a miniature-size parasol with almond-shaped pendants, with two narrow strips of felt running down the sides, also sewn with pendants and decorated with charms, and a long red velvet tail with polychrome tassels and white metal plaques, either chased in relief with flower stems, or set with gems and glass tesserae (the majority now missing), the overall design testament to the elaborate jewellery and adornment art of the Central Asian populations living in modern-day 'Istans', especially Turkmenistan and Kyrghizistan.

21cm diameter and 26cm high, the tail 38cm long including the tassels

Ornate ceremonial hats like the present example have long been a distinctive element of traditional celebration attire among Turkmen women, especially in the important rites of passage such as birth and marriage. In this case, the cowrie shells together with the coins are believed to attract good fortune and prosperity to the bride, reflecting the spiritual beliefs and values of the Turkmen people.