A LARGE HIMALAYAN PERAK HEADDRESS AND NECKLACE SET WITH TURQUOISE, RED AGATE AND CORAL BEADS
Ladakh, Himalayan foothills, Jammu and Kashmir State, Northern India, mid to late 20th century

The elongated, tapering strip of red coarse cotton sewn with a multitude of round-shaped beads, including large turquoise beads at the top decreasing in size as they approach the headdress's tail, and three oval red agate gems set in silver bezel embellished with silver wire and granulation, at the top a square metal amulet box (Tibetan gau or gahu) reminiscent of Islamic bazuband amulets worn on the upper arm, encrusted with corals, turquoises and paste, with two bulbous hoops on the sides, the headdress central band flanked by two large pointy ear-like fur panels made of black yak hair, with long braids dangling from the top, and a rectangular panel sewn with cylindrical coral beads and other semi-precious stones, mounted on a modern black metal stand; accompanied by a neck ornament, known as a skeypuk, the washed indigo blue cotton ground adorned with three large turquoise beads surrounded by rows of red coral beads, with later-added strings on each end.

The headdress 50cm x 91cm including the braids and stand

The necklace 17.5cm x 18cm

In Ladakh, perak headdresses are a fundamental symbol of local women's social status and wealth. The number of turquoise bead rows is not left to chance: nine rows were reserved for royalty; seven rows for the aristocracy; five for distinguished ranks, and three for lower ranks. The choice of materials employed to decorate the headdress was also not a coincidence: turquoise, corals and yak hairs are all linked in the ritual imaginary to Ladakh deities, acting thus as protectors and guides of the wearer.