19th Jun, 2025 12:00

Arts of India and the Islamic Lands

 
Lot 270
 

270

A FINE OTTOMAN METAL-THREAD EMBROIDERED PURPLE VELVET BRIDAL ROBE WITH MATCHING HAT
Possibly Bursa, Ottoman Turkey, 19th century

A FINE OTTOMAN METAL-THREAD EMBROIDERED PURPLE VELVET BRIDAL ROBE WITH MATCHING HAT
Possibly Bursa, Ottoman Turkey, 19th century

This elegant ensemble comprising a full-length kaftan-like female robe and matching hat, both cut from purple velvet, a hue traditionally associated with nobility and ceremonial occasions in the Ottoman Empire, the robe tailored in a classic Ottoman fashion, featuring wide sleeves and a deep neckline, lavishly embroidered throughout with silver-gilt metallic thread, presenting symmetrical rosette sprays, scrolling vines, and lush foliage, the embroidery with raised couching and satin stitch techniques characteristic of high-status Ottoman ceremonial garments, the hem and cuffs adorned with a repeating frieze of rounded, petal-like scalloped design, the interior lined in white silk; and a matching skullcap, similarly worked in coiled metal thread and sequins on a purple velvet ground, with inscriptions and vegetal motifs, lined in red silk, the ensemble likely intended for formal bridal use or as part of an elite trousseau set.

The robe 130cm long

The sleeve span 144cm wide

The hat 16cm diameter

The embroidery technique observed here aligns with the dival style, characterised by the use of metal-wrapped threads and couching—a method where the metal thread is laid on the fabric’s surface and secured with finer threads. This technique was prevalent in Ottoman bridal attire, known as bindallı, which featured dense floral motifs and was often worn by brides during wedding ceremonies. The rich purple velvet and extensive use of gilt thread in this ensemble underscore its association with high-status ceremonial occasions.

For a closely related example, please see the Ottoman embroidered velvet kaftan in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (Accession no. 2000.546), dated to the 19th century, which features similar materials, construction, and decorative techniques. Further comparable garments with dense silver-gilt embroideries successfully sold at Bonhams London, 23 October 2019, lot 76.

Unsold
Estimated at £1,800 - £2,200

 

A FINE OTTOMAN METAL-THREAD EMBROIDERED PURPLE VELVET BRIDAL ROBE WITH MATCHING HAT
Possibly Bursa, Ottoman Turkey, 19th century

This elegant ensemble comprising a full-length kaftan-like female robe and matching hat, both cut from purple velvet, a hue traditionally associated with nobility and ceremonial occasions in the Ottoman Empire, the robe tailored in a classic Ottoman fashion, featuring wide sleeves and a deep neckline, lavishly embroidered throughout with silver-gilt metallic thread, presenting symmetrical rosette sprays, scrolling vines, and lush foliage, the embroidery with raised couching and satin stitch techniques characteristic of high-status Ottoman ceremonial garments, the hem and cuffs adorned with a repeating frieze of rounded, petal-like scalloped design, the interior lined in white silk; and a matching skullcap, similarly worked in coiled metal thread and sequins on a purple velvet ground, with inscriptions and vegetal motifs, lined in red silk, the ensemble likely intended for formal bridal use or as part of an elite trousseau set.

The robe 130cm long

The sleeve span 144cm wide

The hat 16cm diameter

The embroidery technique observed here aligns with the dival style, characterised by the use of metal-wrapped threads and couching—a method where the metal thread is laid on the fabric’s surface and secured with finer threads. This technique was prevalent in Ottoman bridal attire, known as bindallı, which featured dense floral motifs and was often worn by brides during wedding ceremonies. The rich purple velvet and extensive use of gilt thread in this ensemble underscore its association with high-status ceremonial occasions.

For a closely related example, please see the Ottoman embroidered velvet kaftan in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (Accession no. 2000.546), dated to the 19th century, which features similar materials, construction, and decorative techniques. Further comparable garments with dense silver-gilt embroideries successfully sold at Bonhams London, 23 October 2019, lot 76.

Auction: Arts of India and the Islamic Lands, 19th Jun, 2025

Our specialist auction Arts of India and the Islamic Lands is now online for you to browse, peruse and fall in love with your next antique. 

Among the highlights, this sale vaunts a remarkable selection of Rajput Schools paintings and an illustrated loose folio from a Timurid Haft Paykar series, all part of a private Canadian collection; several gem-studded Indian necklaces, treasured heirlooms of a local family; a notable group of Islamic manuscripts, including a geomantic tome attributed to the Nubian alchemist Dhul-Nun al-Misri; and several lots of Persian Qajar lacquer belonging to the heir of a British diplomatic family in office under Sir Denis Wright in Tehran between 1971 - 1973. 

Our selected lots preview starts next week, on Tuesday 3rd June, and the full view is going to take place from Friday 13th June until the sale day. 

Mark your calendars and come to see us!

 

beatrice@azcaauctions.com 

 

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13th June - 10:00 - 17:00
14th June - 11:00 - 16:00
15th June - 11:00 - 16:00
16th June - 10:00 - 17:00
17th June - 10:00 - 17:00
18th June - 10:00 - 17:00

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