Hidden Gems – Show-Stopping Jewellery from our Upcoming Auctions

Hidden Gems – Show-Stopping Jewellery from our Upcoming Auctions

from Arts of India and the Islamic Lands and Watches and Jewellery

14/06/2025     General News

Our upcoming June sales Arts of India and the Islamic Lands (June 19th) and Watches and Jewellery (June 26th) are rapidly approaching… among the highlights are several show-stopping pieces of 19th and 20th century jewellery.

These pieces will all be on view at our premises at 188R Hammersmith Road during the auction viewing periods: from Friday June 13th until the Arts of India and the Islamic Lands sale on Thursday June 19th, and from Friday 20th until the Watches and Jewellery auction on Thursday June 26th.

Our long-awaited Indian and Islamic art sale is next Thursday… among the highlights are five show-stopping pieces of 19th and 20th century Indian and Iranian jewellery.

 

 

Many of these pieces are in the muhgal-revival style - evoking the opulence of earlier Muhgal jewellery, that celebrated the extraordinary quality of precious minerals available to jewellery makers through extensive international trade networks in the 18th and 19th century. The overall aesthetic is one of the greatest possible luxury: elaborate designs incorporating diamonds, rubies, emeralds and spinels and pearls, within masterfully wrought gold settings.  

 

1. Lot 263 - A MUGHAL-REVIVAL SEVEN-STRAND SEED PEARLS AND SPINEL BEADS NECKLACE, Northern India, late 19th - 20th century.

 

 

 (Lot 263, originating from Northern India, late 19th - 20th century)

 

This seed pearl and spinel necklace is one unmissable piece which will feature on June 19th. Spinels are of central importance in the development of Muhgal jewellery- a favourite of emperors, distinct from rubies in their glassy finish but with a similarly beautiful pink-red hue.

 

(Clasp details from Lot 263, est. £10,000 - £15,000)

 

The clasps feature faceted polki diamonds that form petals, with rubies at their center, all set in the tradition Indian kundan setting, which involves utilising the malleable texture of 24k gold to secure gemstones directly into fragile or elaborate surfaces. This piece is estimated at £10,000 - £15,000.

 

2. Lot 259 - AN INDIAN CHOKER AND A PAIR OF EARRINGS WITH MOON AND FISH MOTIF, Northern India, 20th century

 

(Details from Lot 259)

 

Here a gold choker with rock crystal and glass-set pendants in the form of blossoming lotus flowers, further adorned with pearls, is paired with gold earrings of very similar craftsmanship but with lively additional motifs of fish, doves and crescent moons. This set is estimated at £2,500 - £3,500.

 

 

3. Lot 262 - A MUGHAL-REVIVAL SEVEN-STRAND PEARLS AND SPINEL BEADS NECKLACE WITH POLKI DIAMONDS AND RUBY-SET PENDANTS AND CLASPS, Northern India, late 19th - 20th century

 

 

Spinel beads again feature in this piece, forming rows of beads and cultured pearls that cascade dramatically, meeting flower-shaped pendants set with rubies and faceted polki diamonds that create an exaggerated v-shaped silhouette.

 

(Clasp detail from Lot 262)

 

The gold openwork clasps are further lined with rubies that frame a delicate floral design. This piece is estimated at £2,500 - £3,500.

 

4. Lot 261 - A PAIR OF QAJAR POLYCHROME-PAINTED ENAMEL GOLD EARRINGS, Qajar Iran, second half 19th century

 

 

Purchased in Iran over sixty years ago as part of a bridal jewellery set, these stunning polychrome-painted enamel gold earrings are demonstrative of Qajar taste, the painted enamels with delicate blue and pink rosettes on a white ground. Seed pearls and gold charms in the shape of paisley leaves provide further adornment to the elongated, layered design. These earrings are estimated at £1,500 - £2,500.

 

5. Lot 260 - A PAIR OF INDIAN GOLD HOOP EARRINGS WITH PEARLS AND RUBIES, Northern India, 20th century

 

          

 

These gold wire hoop earrings make an impact from all angles. Frontally, an oval ornament is lined with seed pearls and set with foiled rock crystals, while on each hoop a hanging pendant displays an enamelled flower head surrounded by rubies- itself suspending small triangular charms and dangling pearls. These earrings are estimated at £1500 - £2500.

 

(Reverse view of Lot 260)

 

All pictured lots will feature in our June 19th sale, Arts of India and the Islamic Lands. The sale will be on view at our premises at 188R Hammersmith Road from Friday June 13th until the sale, commencing at 12pm on Thursday June 19th.

For condition reports, or any enquires regarding the sale, reach out to Head of Department Beatrice Campi at beatrice@azcaauctions.com.

 

View Auction               Department Page 

 

This is not where the stunning jewellery ends however -  on Thursday June 26th our Watches and Jewellery auction will also feature several important peices, including:

 

AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND GOLD JEWELLERY SET, India, 20th century

 

 

There are also treasures of Indian jewellery to be found outside of Arts of India and the Islamic Lands- this set comprises a necklace, a ring, and a pair of earrings, each piece richly set with vibrant oval and pear-cut emeralds accented by brilliant-cut diamonds, and mounted in 14 karat yellow gold.

 

(Details of the earrings and ring, the set to be offered in our June 26th Watches and Jewellery Sale)

 

The necklace tapers to a central pendant with articulated drops, and the pair of earrings echo this motif with sweeping lines of gold and diamonds. Finally, the ring features a cluster arrangement of emeralds in asymmetric formation, all stones claw-set and arranged in scrolling, organic forms typical of Indian jewellery of the period. This set is estimated at £6000 - £8000.

 

A PAIR OF TOURMALINE AND DIAMOND GOLD EARRINGS.
Possibly Europe, late 20th to early 21st century

 

 

These tourmaline earrings are yellow gold, and designed in a floral cluster arrangement- the pink stones pear and marquise-cut and accentuated by small brilliant-cut diamonds, the stones mounted in 14k yellow gold. These earrings are estimated at £2,200 - £2,600.

 

A GOLD AND RED ENAMEL RING SET WITH AN EMERALD.
Europe, 20th century

 

 

This bold and eye-catching ring is crafted from 18k gold, adorned with vivid translucent red guilloché enamel and set with curving lines of brilliant-cut diamonds, while at the centre lies an oval faceted emerald. The style is evocative of continental Art Deco and later revivalist design, with the combination with enamel and diamond accents creating a striking visual impact reminiscent of the finest 20th-century European jewellers. This piece is estimated at £1,400 - £1,800. 

 

A 18K WHITE GOLD MARQUISE-CUT SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND COCKTAIL RING.
Europe, circa 1980s

 

 

 

With a similar reminiscence of classic Art Deco and late 20th century revival designs, this 18k white gold ring features a marquise-cut deep blue sapphire at its centre, estimated at approximately 0.75 carats. Designed with elegant symmetry, framing the central gem are three rows of brilliant-cut diamonds to each shoulder. This piece is estimated £800 - £1,200.

 

All pictured lots will feature in our June 26th Watches & Jewellery sale - keep your eye out for the full catalogue, which will be online in the coming days! The sale will be on view at our premises at 188R Hammersmith Road from Saturday 21st until the sale, commencing at 12pm on Thursday June 26th.

For condition reports, or any enquires regarding the sale, reach out to Head of Department Tomas Aznar tomas@azcaauctions.com.

 

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