14/06/2025 General News
The Islamic lands and South Asia vaunt an unparalleled, and some may say unsurpassed, tradition of textile making. Their patterns, techniques, and materials showcase a variety which is hard to match. It is precisely this diversity that has fascinated collectors from all around the world for centuries, guaranteeing the survival of these fabrics in the form of true handwoven histories.
Our specialist Beatrice Campi is proud to present a wonderful selection of such textiles in her next auction, Arts of India and the Islamic Lands, taking place on 19th June 2025 at noon. The viewing opened on Friday 13th June and shall continue until Wednesday 18th June.
From a courtly Ottoman dival metal-thread embroidered bridal robe to a tribal Palestinian sleeveless jillayeh coat; from quilted kalamkari panels to Safavid brocades; if you are passionate about textiles and fashion, mark your calendars and do not miss this auction.
The geographic expanse of India and the Islamic Lands offers an endless array of textile styles and techniques, and a brief selection of important lots soon to be offered in Azca’s June 19th sale demonstrates this well…
↑ Lot 269. A PALESTINIAN SLEEVELESS INDIGO BLUE-DYED LINEN JILLAYEH COAT WITH KASSABA EMBROIDERY. Bethlehem or Jerusalem, Holy Land, circa 1880s - 1920s. £400 - £600
This finely embroidered sleeveless coat, traditionally known as a jillayeh or durra, is made from handwoven line, hand-dyed a deep shade of indigo and richly ornamented with multicoloured coloured silk embroidery in the characteristic kassaba stitch. The coat exemplifies Palestinian embroidery produced in the late Ottoman period, and is a style of garment worn at ceremonial gatherings by Palestinian Christian and Muslim women alike.
↑ Lot 275 - An Indian Embroidered Purple Velvet Ceremonial Parasol Cover. India, late 19th – early 20th century. £800 - £1200
Covered with auspicious Hindu symbols such as birds and swastikas, this parasol cover is richly embroidered throughout, to its border trimmed with a fringe of gold thread. These symbols united together form a striking combination of of North Indian courtly and regional folk elements, reflecting the opulent textile traditions of India.
↑ Lot 276 - A Rare Anatolian Jewish Prayer Rug With Hebrew Inscription. Western or Central Anatolia, 19th century. £300 - £500
Handwoven in wool, this type of rug belongs to a small group of Jewish prayer rugs made in Ottoman Anatolia, often in villages with mixed Muslim and Jewish populations. Here the decoration features a menorah-like stylised candelabrum in pale blue and white, while the main border contains star-like motifs in alternating colours and a Hebrew inscription reading אנכי (“Anochi”, “I am [the Lord]”) is woven into the top band in cream wool against a red field; a reference to the Ten Commandments. Perhaps most interestingly, the design merges Islamic architectural models of the prayer niche with Jewish liturgical iconography, resulting in a syncretic Anatolian textile tradition, likely woven for use in a synagogue or private prayer setting.
↑ Lot 270 - A Fine Ottoman Metal-Thread Embroidered Purple Velvet Bridal Robe With Matching Hat. Possibly Bursa, Ottoman Turkey, 19th century. £1,800 - £2,200
The embroidery technique featured in this elegant set of a bridal robe and hat involves using a thick metal-wrapped thread which is laid upon the fabric and secured with finer thread around it.
This style, named dival, was widely popular in Ottoman bridal attire - typically forming dense floral motifs, and creating a striking and luxurious aesthetic well suited to the ceremonial importance of a high-status wedding. Here especially, the metallic gold matches well with the rich, deep purple velvet beneath.
↑ Lot 277 - A Quilted Kalamkari Panel With Niche And Floral Decoration. Deccan, Central India, late 18th – early 19th century. £800 - £1,200
This cotton panel is decorated by a design, both woodblock printed and hand-painted onto its surface, creating a dense pattern of stylised floral sprays and borders filled with cypress trees. Architectural motifs feature also, with arched mihrab-shaped niches, and spandrels crowned with a row of stylised finials resembling minarets.
↑ Lot 271 - An Orange Aba or Abhaya Robe. Possibly Lebanon or Syria, mid-20th century. £200 - £400
The bright, warm tangerine-hued material of this traditional outer robe (aba) is decorated with linear motifs in ivory and contrasting black, green, lilac, and gold stripes, its construction featuring visible hand stiching. This style, cut in a square silhouette with open sides and a front slit, is typical of mid-century Levantine tailoring.
For condition reports, or any enquires regarding the sale, reach out to Head of Department Beatrice Campi at beatrice@azcaauctions.com.